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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.